Dinner: In Waterloo, tasty pleasure can be found under a Thai sun

With change comes opportunity. About 17 years ago, when Pawn Houmphavong’s husband lost his job, an opportunity presented itself. She decided to open a restaurant.

“They said that in Waterloo they didn’t have a real Thai restaurant yet. Someone offered this space to my son. That’s why we came, ”says Houmphavong, owner of Thai Sun at UpTown Waterloo. “I have never cooked (professionally) before in my life, but have experimented at home. I studied what North Americans like about Thai cuisine. They like it to be fresh. They like it to be honest food.

For six months, she worked with her sister, Bonavone Sisombath, chef-owner of Thai Coconut Island in Cambridge. There, she learned how professional kitchens are managed as well as the commercial side of restaurants. She worked on her menu, following her family’s advice, striving to adapt familiar dishes well practiced in her home kitchen.

Thai Sun is a family run restaurant with Pawn in the kitchen, assisted by parents, and her husband, Sam, helping guests. This family feeling extends to their servers, a small team of college students who make their way through school.

“We want to be able to support them, it’s too expensive for them. We have never created a position for staff. When (a staff member) said a friend needed a job, I said, “OK, bring him in. You don’t expect them (to know everything), but you can teach them.

Hailing from Loei in northeast Thailand, Houmphavong’s menu features proven favorites from across the Southeast Asian nation. The flavors here are complex, the aromas are heady, the textures encompass everything from chewy to crunchy, and the palettes range from placid sweet to cheerfully bright. The generous dishes feature produce grown in Ontario; some ingredients are imported from Thailand.

The heat levels can be adjusted, but the environment is not overwhelming. For those of us who love the heat, their fiery chili sauce, made every few days from pickled garlic and chili peppers, hits the mark. No, it’s not for sale (I asked: it’s so good), but you can get thimble-sized jars with your meal. Remember, powerful things come in small containers.

Sam’s Beef Jerky ($ 10) is a homemade treat that deliciously combines sweet, garlic and salty flavors. The slices are fried, giving them an almost translucent red tint. Accompanied by strips of marinated carrots, crushed peanuts and a homemade dip – palm sugar and fish sauce – I understand why a friend recommended it.

The same sides are served with the Fried Dumplings tumble ($ 9). Two-bite blister packs are filled with a sweet and juicy blend of ground pork and shrimp. They make a good accompaniment to the mango salad ($ 13). Dressed in a sweet and tangy tamarind vinaigrette, the colorful refreshing salad mixes firm, just ripe mango with pickled carrots, mint, lettuce and thin slices of lemongrass.

To start, the homemade red curry paste ($ 17, with chicken) is fried in coconut cream, creating a rich floral sauce. It contains good pieces of eggplant, bamboo shoots, onion petals, long beans and tender slices of chicken. Poured over jasmine rice, it’s a good meal.

Tossed in a Thai basil sauce, Phad Kee Mao ($ 17, with chicken and shrimp) is a savory tangle of large rice noodles with tender, crunchy veggies, and well-cooked chicken and shrimp. A spoonful of chili flakes adds a tingle.

It’s the pandan leaves that tint the Mango Sticky Rice ($ 13) a beautiful shade of jade and infuse the dessert with a herbal vanilla flavor. Its firm, sticky beans pair well with soft, smooth ripe mango slices.

Since opening, Thai Sun has quietly attracted a loyal following, returning time and time again for delicious and well-prepared food, by people who have become friends.

“During COVID, we were running out of people. Now I can see them and visit. When they come, they laugh and I see that they are doing well. Sometimes they ask me to sit with them. I never thought I would have (also) amazing clients.

Thai sun

75 King St. S., Unit 61-62, Waterloo

519-747-9006

thaisun.ca

Facebook: @thaisunwaterloo

Instagram: @thaisunwaterloo

Hours: Tuesday to Sunday: 12 p.m. to 8 p.m. Monday: closed.

Menu: Thai restaurant offering favorite dishes made from homemade recipes. Scratch dishes with spice pastes and homemade sauces. The menu includes soups, salads, rice dishes, noodle dishes, entrees and desserts. Vegetarian, non-vegetarian and gluten-free options. Products made from wheat flour and peanuts are in the kitchen. Not all menu items are available for take out. Alcoholic beverages, including cocktails, are reserved for restaurant customers.

Payment: Cash, debit, Mastercard, Visa

How to get your food: Patio and dining room. Pre-ordered and curbside pickup. To go up.

Accessibility: Limit. Main doors and washroom doors do not have an automatic door opener. Grab bars in the bathrooms. Some tables are wheelchair accessible. Some may find the menu font size difficult to read.

The law project: $ 87.58 for three starters, two main courses, one dessert

Ordering food in the time of the coronavirus: As restaurants make day-to-day decisions, please check their social networks or call them for updates. Lists of restaurants open while dining halls are closed can be found at bit.ly/3d2JV74 and wilmotstrongertogether.ca; a crowdsourced list is on Facebook’s Food In The Waterloo Region at bit.ly/3d1cKAX.